The Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2020 collection strayed from the textural layering of black on black as Anthony Vaccarello included a palette of electric blue and scarlet and deep purple for a more delightful lineup.

“I started really enjoying those mixes of colors with the fall,” Vaccarello said. “It gave me the idea and desire to continue it for winter. I always thought that [color] was not my thing…but with time I have to say I just love mixing those improbable colors together, like in a painting.”

The other narrative threaded throughout his Pre-Fall Saint Laurent is the ’70s, an evergreen era for the house. Here the decade is given a different cultural context by Vaccarello, looking to Jane Fonda—actress, activist, icon. “[She] is always relevant, for everything she did in the ’70s and also for what she is still doing,” he said. “She is committed and active and never afraid to stand for her beliefs.”

There are shades of both in this Saint Laurent fall: the button-through skirt in leather or patchworked denim; the fluffy chubby; the squared-off shoulder line of a double-breasted jacket. With those jackets, Vaccarello found a perfect equilibrium, their sublime shoulder lines set off, as he envisages, by the softest of dresses worn underneath.

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