Designed by Clare Waight Keller, the Givenchy Spring 2020 RTW runway show encountered the crossroads where fractal symmetries drawn from the botanical world entwine with a tough urban energy. From the blossoms of old-world Paris to the raw denim spirit of New York City, summertime memories invoked liberated femininity with a poetic lightness of hand.

Givenchy’s Spring collection was a meditation on how some of our fondest fashion memories of the ’90s, from bra tops to slip dresses, were partly products of how heavily sexualized women were throughout the decade. With that in mind, Keller set about reinterpreting them through the lens of what she called “liberated femininity,” putting a tougher spin on ’90s classics and interspersing them with billowing caftans and more of her signature, expertly tailored separates.

For Spring, the cut of her jackets was slim and elongated, paired with Bermuda-length shorts. The collection featured a lively floral print, silk plissé, and a voluminous silhouette. This season her floral dresses have a covered-up sensibility that reads much more 2020 than early ’90s—necklines inched up to the chin and skirts tented to the floor.

Denim was a standout, from short shorts to holey jeans to a V-neck dress made from two different colored washes with a ’90s vintage upcycled fabric pointing to a conscious future.

An exclusive behind the scenes look at the Givenchy Spring 2020 show, through the eyes of Bunny Kinney.