For the Tom Ford Fall 2019 RTW collection, the designer’s desire for calm and security leading him to a strongly tailored line-up.

“I’ve never really been a designer who’s talked about a moment in time, how that’s influenced what I design, but you can’t escape the news,” Ford said. “I feel frustrated and agitated and exhausted. And I don’t want to wear anything particularly challenging or anything particularly aggressive.”

The women’s suits featured luscious color with Ford’s own iconic velvet tux for Gucci with red-on-red. Shoulders styles were strong, collars were turned up, and waists were snug. The trousers were oversized, yet crisp in satin, with gentle rolled cuffs above the ankle. Underneath, Ford layered snug knits or hooded sweatshirts instead of button-downs. It doesn’t get more real-world than hoodies.

Hints of glamour crept in with ankle-strap peep-toe platform pumps dazzled in rhinestones. Faux-fur fedoras and faux jackets and coats with a ’70s aesthetic were present. The silk jersey evening columns with heavy chain embellishments echoed the slinky white numbers from the same mid-’90s collection.

Experience the TOM FORD Autumn/Winter 2019 Fashion Show from backstage, arrivals to the runway.