For the Just Cavalli Pre-Fall 2019 collection, Creative Director Paul Surridge defines a more relevant character to Cavalli’s little sister line, putting the label in a broader contemporary perspective.

“Even between tribes and subcultures, the idea of status still runs strong,” he mused. ”So I started from the concept of uniforms and the codes defining the identity of clans and young social groups.”

The collection featured rock, glamour, rebellion, and a provocative sort of sexiness with Surridge’s filter adding sophisticating and nuance, while keeping the collection’s unconventional spirit alive. “It’s about giving an attitude and not a clichéd replica; it’s bringing up memories without being too literal. It’s a soft exploration through all those themes,” he said.

Denim was infused with an extravagant, slightly historical feel, as in an elongated boxy jacket paired with a miniskirt, quilted and studded to be reminiscent of a regal Elizabethan portrait. Yet the collage-printed neoprene thigh-high hybrid cowboy boots–leggings that complemented the outfit looked progressive enough to erase any soupçon of mellow nostalgia.

The idea of reworked status staples was suggested in a white classic bouclé skirtsuit, the jacket trimmed with multiple thin gold chains for a mild rock flair, while tartan was translated into a graphic windowpane motif in a loose-fitting robe coat, taken slightly out of context with a ’20s-inspired fringed hem.

The collection offered solutions diverse enough to address the inclusivity factor, appealing to a broader spending demographic. A good example was a generously cut porcelain blue wrap coat, peak-lapeled and billow-shouldered, powerful looking without being ostentatious: “It’s not about power dressing anymore, but about feeling confident, letting the femininity come through,” Surridge said.