The Rochas Spring 2025  RTW collection was an homage to sea and sun featuring a mid-century wardrobe with boyish tailoring and casual craft.

Shell shapes and on-point organic textures fleshed out the seaside theme. Borrowing directly from the founder’s sartorial lexicon, Vigilante described a safari jacket as “beach wear that’s a bit boyish” yet he also managed to work in lightness and flou he qualified as “a little messy and easy to wear.” A few tulle tops picked up on the beach ball motif interspersed with an R logo. Shorts in sandcastle brocade gave the theme a literal spin, while cloud-like prints evoked nostalgia, and a sponge-based material, shown here in Look 17, brought both texture and sustainability to the mix.

This collection featured a coastal palette of coconut, yellow, navy and turquoise will be universally flattering, but as the house rolls into its 100th anniversary celebration next year—amazingly, Marcel was only 23 when he set up shop—it will need to ease up a bit on the past and focus on its future. No logo, however sleek, can prove a house’s relevance for the 21st century.