The Elie Saab Pre-Fall 2023 collection focused on the basics: color, shape, fabric. The designer chose to work with scuba fabrics and it paid off in the form of a red, floral appliqué dinner dress with a pretty portrait neckline and the “hug”-like fit typical of the material.

Sophistication was what Saab was after, and he achieved it in terms of palette, by focusing on “recherche” grenadine rather than red, for example. The designer paired hoodies with midi skirts for a daytime feel. He cut his pants full, which is in line with what we’ve been seeing throughout the season.

These, like many other pieces made use of fil à broder (thread embroidery), a conscious choice on the part of Saab, who was more focused on lightness and simplicity than glitz this season.