For Erdem Resort 2025 collection, the designer has taken inspiration from the author Radclyffe Hall, during the publication in the 1920s of her controversial book: The Well of Loneliness. Hall lived openly as a gay women with her partner Una Troubridge. She frequently wore men’s clothes, latterly renaming herself John.

Erdem’s collection plays with the tension between masculine and feminine styles and silhouettes of the 1920s, exploring power and vulnerability simultaneously. “This is the sort of direction I’m going in,” he hinted, not giving away too much.

Moralioglu’s work is grounded in his intelligent understanding of what women need for occasion dressing—a particular kind of practical modern romanticism that never errs on the too-much. There’s the elegant simplicity of draped dresses, strewn with 3-d flowers, with an asymmetric cape aflutter on one shoulder, a shape also echoed in a swathed-neck sweater. In the tailored pieces, again, there are flowers—as appliques on a swaggering Prince of Wales coat, or prints superimposed on nipped-waist skirt suits.