Anthony Vaccarello turned transparency on its head, giving a nod to Monsieur Saint Laurent’s own tangle with the transparent, for the Fall 2024 RTW collection. Vaccarello did imbued his collection with that absolute and once radical chic, and slyly comment on how banal transparency has become in our culture, and at the same beat, seeing it anew.

He delivered a taut, impeccably controlled silhouette which stretched across and around the body hither and thither, in the shape of bow-neck blouses, pencil skirts, and draped dresses to just below the knee, the shapes the very definition of propriety even if the sheerness wasn’t. All of this came in a beautiful palette that ranged from taupe to caramel to olive to ochre to chocolate brown to vermillion to black.

The accessories included a whip-thin belts, in bordeaux patent leather or gilded chain links; vernis ankle strap wedge or stiletto heeled sandals; stacked lucite bangles; and—I guess these would count as accessories here—fabulous powder puff marabou jackets that were as often just casually draped over the arm as they were shrugged onto the models’ bodies. Those tights even turned up as some very Martha Graham headwraps.