For his debut with the Fall 2024 RTW collection, creative director Adrian Appiolaza plays homage to the House of Moschino and its founder Franco Moschino – its tradition of excellence and wit, his essence.

Taste and tastes – a commencement, a taste of what is to come. This is a collection founded in tailoring and craft, but also in gestures and ideology. Today, Franco Moschino’s universal, all-inclusive messages of peace and love feel as relevant and timely as they did in the past – here, reiterated for a new generation, a new era, with the same impact.

Ironic and iconic, evocations of Franco Moschino’s universe form a spine of inspiration, archive items not repeated but revisited, reassessed and rejuvenated. Their proportions are reinvented, their fabrications reimagined, but their energy remains. An archive here is approached not as a repository of past ideas but as a living, breathing thing – Franco not as a distant memory, but as an active collaborator in spirit.

Clothes are drawn from a sartorial vernacular, classics to be twisted: the trench, the foulard, denim, the tailored suit, lingerie, clutched pearls, a tie. All are subverted and inverted, championed as they are challenged. They are joined by the esthetic equivoques characteristic of Franco Moschino – his trompe l’oeil and trickeries, constant contradiction of elitism and snobbish values, his question marks, emblems of an insistent interrogation of meaning at the core of any work bearing his name. His distinct lexicon of fashion, the identity of this house. These were his obsessions, they become ours.