The Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2024 RTW collection featured xlean, essential masculine-inflected tailoring  that was warmed up by artisanal special pieces called Opere to highlight their elevated level of craftsmanship. Often handmade, they were the visual peak of an otherwise calm, elegant offering played out in the subtle natural tones that are a Cucinelli hallmark.

A standout in the lineup was a pantsuit in a slightly raw jute fabric, entirely embroidered with tone-on-tone sequined florals and worn over a matching brassiere.

Throughout the collection, silhouettes were kept neat and elongated, outlined with precise ease and lit up by metallic accents of liquid silver; denim pieces were also given a discreet glittery shine. Casual chez Cucinelli is always infused with a certain polish, and breezy informality is treated with a sartorial flair.

Cucinelli, who definitely has a way with words, summed it up like this: “It’s tailoring with poetic license.”