Olivier Rousteing dives into the archives for the Resort 2024 collection, exploring Balmain’s heritage while opening up a new path.

The collection features sculpted ”jolie madame” jackets with rounded shoulders and nipped waists or culottes, in statement-making combinations of red, light blue, and mint. Or leopard print in lurex jacquard. Hats inspired by the ’50s and ’70s are shown here in their true-to-heritage dimensions.

“If it’s not part of your DNA, there’s no point in jumping on the same bus,” he said. That goes for men, too. After a century of borrowing from men’s closets, women’s wear now is returning the favor. ”It shows that the codes of humanity are changing,” the designer said.

A jacket with one of Monsieur Balmain’s signature constructions—a nip-waisted jacket is now revisited with a lashing of stars and stripes in the form of crystal fringe. Ornamental trim borrowed from the cowboy lexicon is blown up into lavishly embroidered jackets, bodycon dresses, or pants. A few workhorse pieces, among them a sharply cut python-print leather trench.