The Khaite Resort 2024 collection focuses on super-chunky hand-knits seen through sweater dresses, machine knit on the horizontal with a substantial feel. A stretch jersey henley bodysuit worn with high-waisted leather pants just might be the star of the season; it’s sexy in the offhand way of that virally famous cashmere bra.

The silhouette of the moment is ’90s-ish, full-legged and relaxed—and an array of leather jackets that are unmistakably cool. A group of silk twill pieces in a souvenir print with depictions of New York City landmarks was a surprise, a charming one.

Catherine Holstein likes an exaggerated shoulder and a defined waist, or a cropped one, and she experimented with military-style buttons on some styles. The coat silhouettes are oversized and commanding. Evening dresses, in contrast, are an exercise in fluidity with fluttering ruffles, and prodigious skirts made from yard-upon-yard of drapey silk georgette. Still glam—she showed them with long gloves in this lookbook—but softer.