Shop the interactive Saint Laurent Spring 2023 RTW collection as an ultra-refined, elongated silhouette defines this season reimagining one of the house’s cornerstone silhouettes for a new generation.

Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello combines an iconic key motif of the fashion house from the mid-1980s: Yves Saint Laurent’s hooded “capuche” pieces. The pivotal point of reference surfaces from the profound cultural impact of Martha Graham’s tubular sheath, worn for her choreography in Lamentation, 1930. This influence is evident in many of the house founder’s original collections, including his Spring/Summer Haute Couture 1985 and final Fall/Winter Haute Couture show in 2002. Re-introducing the slender figure with a draped hood at the forefront of the collection, Vaccarello pays tribute to the heritage of the fashion house.

Gliding effortlessly with the body as models emerged from the stone stairs into the night, the floor-length slinky designs dominated the runway in a muted color palette of olive greens, deep plum purples, and rust browns. The functional fluidity of the collection is expressed through soft silk jersey knit gowns that elegantly float with ease.

The collection is balanced with the house’s signature androgynous sophistication, combining pieces like sexually liberated dresses with bold shoulders and heavy bombers. Additionally, trench coats with bold shoulders are slung over refined silhouettes exploring a dichotomy between masculine and feminine. The floor-length draped dresses are experimented through defining cut-outs and sensual necklines. Columnar, barely-there silhouettes express a new era of sensuous power dressing that homages Saint Laurent’s longstanding history in sartorial empowerment.