The Maison Kitsuné Fall 2023 RTW collection draws its key inspiration from the clash between Teddy girls and Eton boys: the audacious energy of punk rebellion surging against preppy tradition. Through this lens, staples are reimagined: rugby shirts, varsity jackets and polos reconfigured with the contemporary cool which defines the brand; collegiate stripes, regatta florals and imagined insignia collaged with a tongue-in-cheek irreverence.

Traditional checks are reworked in new scales, and gently oversized proportions imbue historic propriety with a casual, modern insouciance. The Maison Kitsuné logo appears overgrown with wildflower embroidery, while graphic florals and daisy chains appear throughout the collection both as details and printed jacquards: an amalgam of the Edwardian trimmings familiar to punk, as well as regatta bouquets.

The introduction of a floral camouflage blends the vocabulary of the two worlds. The appearance of Teddy essentials – a black cotton satin blouson, or dark washed Japanese denims – reaffirms a disruptive spirit while offering seasonal staples. Within that wardrobe, sartorial silhouettes are meticulously constructed and richly textured, but possess an effortless appeal. Outerwear maintains the utilitarian multi-functionality key to Maison Kitsuné, but with a stylish twist. A new energy remains present throughout tailoring and shirting designed with a casual fit. Trademark pieces – a neat pea coat in woollen twill, or a water-repellent cropped puffer – appear with modern proportions while statement knitwear integrates an array of innovative weaving techniques and extra fine merino wools and mouline yarns for a luxurious appeal.

The iconic Fox Head logo is reconsidered through the clarity of this evolved perspective: graphic and linear, realised in a tonal array of colours, its transformative capabilities reflect the creative expression that remains at the heart of the brand’s essence.