Charles de Vilmorin describes the Rochas Fall 2023 RTW collection as a story about a woman who loves going out, partying, and who through her clothes needs to preserve that energy and hold onto memories of a really festive atmosphere.

Framed as a sentimental journey through the ’50s, the collection emphasized high contrast and showed De Vilmorin’s potential as a colorist. Lingerie references refiltered from the archives included the improbable pairing of a yellow-toned, glossy python-print leather bustier and a lush brocade in Wedgwood blue and silver.

A coat in that jacquard was paired with a woven gold Lurex gown. A skirt in the same material was shown with a navy zippered rib-knit cardigan. The designer clearly has a sense of occasionwear—a raspberry bustier dress had an air of Old Hollywood sophistication—but overall this short presentation conveyed a sense that De Vilmorin is doing what he can with limited resources.