Daywear and evening looks draw inspiration from the daring creations that extended across fashion, art, cinema and urban architecture for the Paco Rabanne Pre-Fall 2023 collection. From the ambitious revitalization of certain neighbourhoods to the popularity of nightclubs where people could release their inhibitions, the city possessed in indefatigable spirit.

Against the backdrop of La Géode, throwback references are twisted, remixed and realised for today. From an oversized streetwear parka lined with silver, to lashings of costume jewellery, this is a wardrobe that evokes a gritty glamour. Sophisticated silhouettes signal an insouciant attitude, as bold red trousers are juxtaposed with a cropped and buckled blouson, both in glossy coated cotton; yellow zebra print tailoring is worn with a high-neck poplin blouse or trompe l’oeil bustier; and metal mesh is paired with cargo pants in khaki green technical drill. For a high-contrast statement, Paco Rabanne puts its spin on Fair Isle by showing the cosy knit with gleaming metal mesh.

Elsewhere, archetypal codes are playfully ruptured, and visual interest is dialled high: a faux fur coat comes alive with feline spots, ruched dresses pulse with graphic New Wave patterns, and a floating floral print shimmers within metal mesh. Perfectly matched or mischievously clashing, each outfit befits a feisty feminine spirit. Denim and grey jersey are tricked out with DIY-effect studs, strass and charms. And what’s more pop than an assemblage of bi-colour pills – hundreds of them strung together as a conversation piece. On a T-shirt, a single pill is split in the shape of heart and spills out rhinestones.

Amidst all the novelty pieces, this collection comes together as a flexible wardrobe with new variations on mainstays such as stretch lace layers; ribbed dresses spliced with hand embroidery; optic lurex knit ensembles; velvet jersey enhanced with flounced volumes; flou garments contoured with snaps outlining the body; and a generous sweater coat that is timelessly chic.

For the first time, iconic assemblage bags are proposed in all-over hues as though submerged in a colour bath. Shades of emerald green and candy pink pack a chromatic punch. Other animations of the iconic 1969 focus on both shape (a small bucket and a sphere) and surface detail (dangling jewels and strings of pearls). Additional accessories range from rock-inflected studded leather belts and chokers to flamboyant strass brooches revived from a bygone time.