Marco De Vincenzo celebrates the patrimony of unparalleled knowledge of textiles from Gimmo Etro in the Pre-Fall collection.

December 7, 2022


The Etro Pre-Fall 2023 collection took shape when Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo found a scrap of a Gobelin furnishing fabric in an antique book of textile samples in an old wooden library. The jacquard patterns of the velvet-woven textile were blown up into almost kinetic macro renditions, or reduced into lilliputian micro motifs, and then translated into the neat shapes.

De Vincenzo has never played on overtly complex, elaborated shapes or volumes, rather leaning into the precision of a minimalistic silhouette to enhance decorative boldness. The introduction of black gave the collection some pause from the quite intense visual impact of the allover jacquard textures. Decoration was toned down to finely embroidered floral trimmings, placed at the halter neckline of a belted minidress in thick black crêpe, or on the edges of a cropped, midriff-baring black bolero, worn with low-slung bell bottoms.

De Vincenzo is also exploring less traveled Etro routes, one being the masculine-inspired offer. He translated classic men’s shirting fabric into a quite eccentric flounced, frilly minidress, while his take on the tailored pantsuit was offered in a series of fluid three-pieces with a hint of the ’70s in languid silk velvet and embroidered buttons giving a touch of handcrafted preciousness. Rendered in jewel-tone colorways, they made for covetable propositions.


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