In a vibrant new Rodarte Spring 2023 RTW collection, the brand brings to life the ’90s world of disco with pieces such as a rainbow-psychedelic-swirled slip dress, a metallic-sequined frock with structured epaulets and glittering hippie-flared pants.
Burnout velvet, a popular ’90s-era fabric, is used generously on multiple looks: as white and black horses on a blue chiffon dress; as botanical patterns on top of see-through mesh draping; as delicate trimmings on a striped purple dress.
The color palette was one way the sisters achieved their sartorial goals, especially on simple slip dresses—some lingerie-inspired, others with a more vintage flare—in shades of acid orange, turquoise blue, grass green, and rose petal pink, familiar to anyone who grew up a little bit alternative in the ’90s.
The collection is lensed by longtime collaborator of the brand Daria Kobayashi Ritch, styled by Shirley Kurata and Ashley Furnival, and modeled by Beyoncé Ambrose, Bingbing Liu and Kate McNamara, among others. Each look features a model sporting a punk-inspired asymmetrically spiked hair moment, in varying shades of — you guessed it — ’90s-friendly acid orange, electric blue or neon green. This overall punk aesthetic inserts a feeling of rebellion among a relatively feminine collection.
While some of the silhouettes are relatively conservative, others have more dramatic contours. This is especially true of an entirely hand-knit purple gown that cinches at the waist, then flares out in the style of a 19th-century crinoline dress.