The Alexandre Vauthier Spring 2023 collection is inspired by the ’80s where the designer wanted to feel sun, freshness, and make it a light summer.

The colleciton featured lashings of sequins or flashy, faded “liquid” denim, a new extrapolation of his embroidered pieces for couture. Primary colors—Klein blue, magenta, yellow—and their derivations, like emerald or purple. Furthermore, the designer’s signature tailored jackets, a slouch-shouldered belted trench, and a T-shirt or a hoodie with structured shoulders were present. Draped jersey is Vauthier’s home base, and here it ran the spectrum from silver to black, perhaps cinched with a cowboy belt. Digital prints, too, made an appearance, in acid yellow flowers on a pleated black skirt. A few numbers in gold leaf-covered leather looked like solid investment pieces for the ages.

Accessories-wise, Vauthier revisited the bucket bag, a shape he considers “super luxury, sophisticated but practical.” An Italian factory with mega-brand cred agreed to produce four sizes of a bag whose kidney-bean shape is designed to embrace the body’s natural curve. The pant-boot shape the designer introduced five years returned with added flourishes like a trompe l’oeil wrap detail that elongates to infinity and beyond.