The 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2023 RTW collection is made for real life with an added element of surprise that elevates his clothes above the everyday.

“At the end of the day it’s a textile; we can design whatever,” Lim said.

The season’s lineup featured French-terry sweatsuit fabric was treated in the same irreverent way for a shoulder-baring top and another with a cutout on the side. Suiting followed the body or came in boyish, oversized proportions, while he used pleated recycled polyester for two dress silhouettes, one with a subtle hourglass shape and the other with a more generous flared volume.

He likes to give his clients options, but this offering was smaller than in previous seasons. That’s strategic. “Make less, mean more,” he said, also pointing out the tote bags he had constructed with leftover strips of different colors of leather and weaving from remnant ribbons.