The Marc Jacobs Fall 2022 RTW runway show was a undiluted fashion experience designed to titillate the purists, defined by elements of mundane, modern dress — scrubs, white men’s shirts, bright ribbed sweaters, denim — romanced into fantastical Gilded Age gothic silhouettes.
Candy-colored logo denim jackets and maxi-skirts were worn backward and forward, twisted and tied to create the impression of a bustled ball skirt. Mr. Jacobs built up exaggerated ball gown proportions in pink sequins and pastel logo cotton, then switched to oversize, graphic black and white leather work wear worn with gigantic hobo bags.
He stripped it all down into the lean, gothic minimalism of a cropped white canvas corset worn with a long, black tailored suit-skirt slit up the back. Then he whipped up classic couture shapes out of pink, purple and mint ribbed knits and sequined puffs piled on top of straight tank skirts.
All of the models were shod in aggressive platform Mary Janes in black or white, and many wore dark wigs that appeared shaved into a severe, neo-goth mullet.