The Ulla Johnson Resort 2023 collection of vibrant, windswept silhouettes and flickering prints are deftly arranged and connected into concrete volumes and flowing silhouettes with handcrafted details.
Jumping off from a point of poetic juxtapositions both metaphysical and material, Pre-Spring 2023 explores the play between contrasts—refracted geometry and refined utility, billowing softness and cool restraint, saturated and subdued monochrome and prismatic pattern, optical white and graphic noir. Johnson is at ease in this sea of shifting contrasts, engaging her strengths in magnificent and unexpected explorations. The new season introduces a contemplative manipulation of signature materials including water washed poplin, tricot jersey, and various silks through a language of bubbled hems, drawcords, layering, and pintucks in a variety of scales. Shapes are fluid yet lean, featuring a sensuousness crafted by carefully considered draping. Body skimming silhouettes are adorned by expertly constructed frills, flounces, and ruffles that cascade in ever-widening spirals across dresses and separates.
Johnson effortlessly traces the contours of the natural world and translates them into this season’s colors and textures: The crystalline azure of Patagonia’s tranquil lakes is transformed into a saturated teal that splashes across water washed poplin, while the texture of intricate ruffles on a velvet frock conjures the undulating lines of the mighty glaciers. Colors spring from the rich hues of wildflowers and are shown in unexpected combinations: pink thistle, coral poppy, and goldenrod yellow are set against a darkly romantic backdrop of twilight purple and patinated gold.
Johnson’s continued exploration of refined outerwear and suiting provides an urbane moment within a wildly vibrant collection, encapsulated in an expertly tailored oversized trench, wide-leg trouser, and cinched-waist jacket. Similarly thrilling is the superb novelty knitwear which emerges in delicate textures that both skim and swell around the body with sculptural bobble-knits, delicate micro ruffles, and artful lattice stitch detailing.