The Lanvin Fall 2022 RTW collection by Bruno Sialelli is a celebration of the paradox and contradiction of fashion, and of the contrasting themes that energized the work of Jeanne Lanvin. This collection is a reflection of Lanvin’s heritage – yet, with all reflections, it is refracted, reinvented, itself an illusion – a modern reconfiguration of the codes of Jeanne Lanvin.
Inspiration is drawn from Art Deco and Ancient Egypt – thousands of years apart, the aesthetics of the former were fundamentally shaped by the latter. The graphic nature of Egyptian art and architecture delineated the 1920s, and therefore Modernism – a future, born from the past. Reflecting that notion literally, jewellery evokes an Egyptian feel, abstracted foliate and teardrop shapes echoing the Arpège perfume bottle. Even the stylized Lanvin ‘Chat’ bag provides an unexpected nod to Egypt – it is applied to a new ‘Guitar’ shaped chassis, the cat’s head translated to the top-handle ‘Smile’ bag, and an ongoing collaboration with Judith Leiber creates a minaudière as a precious, bejeweled tulip bloom.
Silhouettes are narrow, shoulders emphatic with a tailored swagger, applied to coats and jumpsuits but also loaned to soft dresses – a contradiction between sharpness and fluidity. A sense of polish, rigor and sophistication inspired by the maison’s couture heritage prevails, across all genders.
Textures are rich and lustrous, colors deep. Leather is given a preciousness, polished in gem tones. There is a game of make-believe with surfaces: Tessellated Art Deco patterns, like tiles or marquetry, may be evoked through print, knit, or fils-coupe silk-velvet, hand-painted, their lustre pretending embroidery.
Conversely, embroidery is given the graphic feel of print – stacked sequins resemble polka-dots, others seem to pixellate, 21st century decoration dissolving. Fabrics can pretend, too: cashmere is washed for softness, silk panné velvets bonded to jersey for weight, tailored with precision. When touched, held, clothes transform and evolve at your fingertips.