In the Schiaparelli Fall 2022 RTW collection, Daniel Roseberry’s symbols were in evidence—gold nipple buttons and belt buckles and molded leather torso bags included. The collection was rooted in denim embroidered with the illustrations he did for the tablecloths at a Bergdorf Goodman dinner last fall, and knits that included riffs on the famous trompe l’oeil intarsias.

Roseberry pointed out that ready-to-wear came first for Schiaparelli and couture only after she’d achieved some level of success. As synonymous as she is with surrealism, the woman had a pragmatic streak. No one would mistake Roseberry for a maker of basics, but there’s an American honesty to the jeans here with their double S’s on the back pockets, and to stretch velvet and stretch leather pieces that take their shapes from athletic wear. Roseberry connects with the energetic, American vibe of Herb Ritts’s photos, which certain images in this lookbook were designed to reflect.

The designer is as fluent in kinky Parisian excess. As the embellished cone bras make clear, he relishes it. The plan is to take this collection on an extended American trunk show.