The foundation of the new Helmut Lang Fall 2022 RTW collection is tailoring, streamlined and minimal, with an elasticized double waistband treatment bearing the house logo. The designer was known for traditional sartorial techniques like strips of rubber on the inner waistband to hold pants in place, and the logo is lifted from his inner waistbands, but for the uninitiated.

Co-opting military uniform was another essential part of Lang’s repertoire. He made the parka a fashion item. Pre-Helmut, you couldn’t walk into a designer boutique and score one; it was the Army & Navy store, the vintage shop, or nothing. The brand’s fall 2022 parka is sharply done, with a useful button-out shearling lining. A cropped shearling bomber also looked on-brand.

Rounding out the collection are dresses that play with sheer and opaque, and silk slips with lace insets of the sort seen from a lot of other contemporary labels. To this old Helmut-head, the interest here lies in the tailoring and outerwear.