Transparency combined with elements of lingerie and designer’s signatures—notably bows and shirting, stretched out and turned every which way— form the Alexis Mabille Spring 2022 Haute Couture collection.

“It’s all about desire,” the designer explained backstage before showing a concise lineup of 25 looks, most of them in nude tones with plays on texture, from tattoo-like lace to showers of tiny crystals or matte and shiny paillettes. “It traces the body almost like a drop of perfume or a hint of makeup,” he offered.

More elaborate constructions included dresses in stretch mesh with strass, a catsuit in Chantilly lace, and a top made of 1,500 individually stitched butterflies. A bustier appeared in re-embroidered Lyon lace; a backless sheath dress in crystal diamond mesh had satin bows stacked down the front like vertebrae running from chin to toe.

The finale came in the form of a bow cape in black casimir and beige satin fully embroidered with paillettes, worn over a jumpsuit in embroidered tulle. But wrapping a woman up in a bow is Mabille’s home turf.

Go backstage at  the Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Spring 2022 runway show.