Young designer Charles de Vilmorin approached the Rochas Pre-Fall 2022 collection thinking more about wearability where the styles were more classically inclined, though sweetened with his natural inclination toward whimsy.

One of founder Marcel Rochas’s jackets became a prototype for the delicately belted white style with rounded sleeves here, and a famous image of Hélène with a taxidermy bird perched on the bodice of her dress informed the jacquard motif on a pair of cropped trousers. Another jacquard, which De Vilmorin applied to jackets and coats, lifted from Sonia Delaunay’s Alphabet—R for Rochas.

“I love this artist,” he said. “I’m inspired by her direct message.” Exaggerated Pierrot collars were another one of his talking points, and the collection also had an outdoorsy streak that came through in walking shorts and riding boots.