JW Anderson has collaborated with photogapher Juergen Teller for the Spring 2022 RTW collection lookbook, spotlighting the relevance of Teller’s work to the current zeitgeist where there no retouching and no filter.

The photographer had convinced the designer that he should shoot himself thus in his underpants with tires. For what—after about three seconds’ thought—is surely an in-joke satire on the Pirelli calendar (and the Italian tire company’s pin-up tradition) in this new age of body-revealing fashion.

The collection featured a precision of pieces like the semi-transparent, circular-embroidered, handkerchief-hemmed dresses and a tan leather shift, fastened with buckled straps. The crafty quirkiness of JW Anderson’s signatures is there, all right, in details like strands of upcyled plastic woven into shoulder-strap fringes and mesh mini-dresses.