The Mugler Fall 2021 RTW collection is revealed in a series of sleek vignettes that examine the tropes of the back lot, studio photography and the runway show by breaking the 4th wall and harnessing the power of the gaze.
Catapulting backwards and forwards, swivelling and zooming in a constant game of inertia and perspective, adventurous camera work accompanies a vampish cast of Mugler characters spanning the ultra-famous to the entirely anonymous, from canonical supermodels to fitting models and new faces. Emphasizing the art of the pose, the reveal and conceal of flesh affirms Mugler’s no-holds-barred celebration of the feminine form in all its glory.
The young American reignites the Mugler flame since his arrival at the label in 2018 by adapting the label’s curvy, body-con aesthetic for the athleisure generation. Where Mugler’s corsets are rigid—his iconic 1992 motorcycle-chassis corset is made from plastic, metal, and Plexiglas—Cadwallader’s are built with two-way stretch. “You can tie your shoes, sit in a taxi, you can breathe,” he said.
Material innovation and an embrace of extremes are essential to Mugler’s current success. There’s a pair of ass-less pants in the new lineup, but Cadwallader indicated that he might not have designed them if customers weren’t already wearing the part-sheer, part-opaque tights he’s been making for the last couple of seasons “without clothing.”