Alexis Mabille was inspired by the iconography of the femme fleur in his Fall 2021 Haute couture collection. “I was actually thinking about the beauty of blooming again after the hardships we’ve been through,” he said. “Under the circumstances, women haven’t been given the chance of enjoying glamour and looking their most sensational selves. I was thinking of a spirit of renaissance, of blooming again to a joyful life.”

The collection featured a series of sculptural silhouettes, including an empire-waisted gown featuring flower bouquets blooming on its décolletage and a golden lurex tuxedo with a hood in the shape of a rosebud. Elsewhere, pouf sleeves were filled like crystal vases with silicone tulips. “They look and feel so real to the touch, it’s almost disturbing,” he joked.

The designer’s “borderline sense of color,” as he called it, was let loose in a series of spectacular millefeuille tulle capes. Gradient-hued in tones of amaryllis red, wisteria, and Pierre de Ronsard pink, they indeed looked like psychedelic, crazy blooms. “I wanted a flattering feel of sensuality, excitement, fun,” said Mabille. “Couture for me has to exude an ésprit ludique.”