Shop the interactive Acne Studios Spring 2021 RTW runway show where materials are a particular focus, with fabrics that interact and change with the light; cracked leather, pearlized cotton, metallic thread organza, iridescent paper.

Acne Studios has collaborated with the LA artist Ben Quinn, whose work is rooted in his experiences with the supernatural. His painting of a pulsating star is printed on an oversized metallic thread organza tunic, a washed linen top and wrap skirt, and tops in cotton voile or embroidered paillette top. Quinn’s image is also turned into a patchwork for sheer dresses and skirts.

Fabrics of different weights, weaves and textures are worn together to evoke a poetic silhouette. Crochet knits are like fishing nets for bandeau tops, knickers or skirts, worn as layering pieces. Often, it’s under a translucent layer, while other times the crochet gives contrast, like under a raw-cut leather sleeveless dress.

Slouchy tailored jackets are as soft as can be, with no internal construction, even made from suit lining. Raw cut leather and suede provide moments of structure.

Luminescence is everywhere. A dip-dyed trench is in pearlescent organza, cut wide and loose. Cracked leather raw cut apron tops throw back the light, while a metallic shift dress is in crinkled iridescent paper. Metallic cuffs and earrings are reflective and delicate, as if hand-stamped, decorated with shells and stones. Transparent framed glasses let the light pass through them and are oversized enough to take in the whole of the moon.