The Alexis Mabille Spring 2021 Haute Couture collection delivered ease, fusing movement-friendly fabrics with cinematic influences, structure, and colors.

The collection featured The smoking, which the designer transposed into a white scarf-blouse in chiffon and satin over black crepe trousers, or a long black dress with a stylized heart neckline. “It’s flou, and at the same time built for a power woman,” said the designer.

The theatrical side of the Second Empire also came through on a long midnight blue sheath embroidered with arabesques in three shades of gold, to enhance the impression of relief. A fully sequined midnight blue trench came in curve-skimming jersey. Elsewhere, the skirt of an evening ensemble featured a batwing sleeve top in changeant gray taffeta over a skirt with a mirage flower print in three layers of crystal-flecked tulle.

The designer also has a longstanding fascination with the American costume designer Adrian. A few negligée-inspired numbers, like one in gold princess crepe with bare shoulders, or a long shirt dress in pleated gold lamé with a mesh yoke, were created with Hollywood’s golden era in mind. Elsewhere, a long bustier dress in pearlescent fishnet was made of technical material cribbed from the sports world. Some dresses were created entirely without seams.

Go behind the scenes of Alexis Mabille’s Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021 collection at the Salle Pleyel in Paris.