Observing Franco Moschino’s penchant for messing with the stereotypes of the traditional wardrobe, Jeremy Scott went a step further for the Moschino Pre-Fall 2021 collection. The trench coat, the biker jacket, and the jean jacket—staples loaded with societal connotations—found new ways to unify and harmonize in a surgical symphony Scott called “collisions of archetypes,” all modeled by Winnie Harlow.
“I love collage as an art form,” Scott said on a video call from his home in Los Angeles. “It’s how I usually work when I’m doing collections—illustrating them, taking pictures, cutting them apart, putting things together.” On every level, it’s how he’s been working since he relocated to California 20 years ago. Before we all became pandemic-time experts at long-distance collaboration, Scott’s creative process came together as a sort of collage in itself. “They were shipping things to me, I’d make notes, send them back.”
As we draw the curtain on this monumental year, you could approach his Moschino collection—his last of 2020—as the simplified perspective on that philosophy: Take the archetypes of the old world, cut them up, and collage them together.
“You might have the tweed dress, but she’s got the biker lapels and corset sprouting out of it,” he said, referring to a look Alexis Colby wouldn’t have turned down. “You thought she was a good girl, but she’s actually a little naughty. And I think that’s the truth of it. Everyone is not 100%.” It was a simple idea in a time when clarity is a luxury, delivered with all the teddy-bear motifs and faux-fur cartoon eyes that Scott finds evoke the comfort of nostalgia. “People are multifaceted and complex—that’s always been true, but maybe now it needs to be more visible for people,” he reflected. “I also just thought they were kind of cute clothes.”