Vera Wang fused Spring 2021 RTW and Fall 2021 Bridal elements into a single, compelling narrative, unafraid to work artfully outside the lines, leading to a romantic, dark, ethereal, edgy collection.

“She can be a tomboy and she can be extremely artsy,” Wang said. “One doesn’t preclude the other.”

She started with the neutral palette she loves — black, white, gray, skin tones — adding in some red and blue in the unfussy florals she inaugurated for fall. While the masculine-feminine tension features most familiarly in a red floral frock coat over a tulle ball skirt, elsewhere she works it to a more challenging effect, the haute-sporty communion compelling in its dichotomy.

The collection features deftly gathered stretch of white chiffon over a bodysuit, and a gown with a voluptuous cutaway skirt and seamless bustier bodice. Wang then quickly introduces the RTW element, in black wool shorts worn with an opera coat with dramatic bow sleeves that morph into a train. Precise white jackets are cut strapless or open in back, also over short black pieces.

Throughout, tulle flourishes flirt with strict tailoring and black wool bodices while abundant, couture-esque sleeve treatments similarly counter the spare, sporty pieces beneath and plenty gowns are both full and linear.