The 1017 Alyx 9SM Spring 2021 RTW collection features jackets pared down to their most essential shapes and slip dresses constituting the majority of the womenswear offering.

A twisting motif started in fall 2020 continues here as a silken overlay on a tank and evolves into a dress that looks as though a men’s shirt is wrapped around its bust. It’s something women will appreciate: elegant above the sternum and comfortable below the waist. Lace-trimmed skirts and tops with cinched leather busts round out the women’s-specific offering.

The embellishments and embroideries are an extension of Williams’ growing interest in material development. The leather in this collection is specially treated with a resin finish for high shine.

A new sneaker is 100% EVA polymer, sort of like a foam runner, while another is a mix of graduated perforated leathers. A faux snakeskin is pattern-matched from bandana to boot, and puffas are ultra slim with geometric cap sleeves hammered on with studs.

Meanwhile, Alyx’s buckles have been replaced with a new slim metal bar to dart the waist of the jacket and calf of the pant. The pieces are roomier and simpler than the strapped and cinched looks of early Alyx.