For the Elie Saab Pre-Fall 2020 collection, the designer was in an Andalusian frame of mind wih tiers of ruffles and lace, lashings of fringe, and lots of 3D embroidery.

Some evening gowns were likewise minimalist—a one-sleeved black dress comes to mind—but on the opposite end of the spectrum, the designer also delivered a handful of compelling numbers with lush-colored floral embroidery either on tulle set against black lace or veiled by a tulle overskirt. Washed-out florals on a fully sequined skirt with a gunmetal ground looked pretty too.

Saab’s base—among them many red carpet regulars—will delight in ultra-feminine dresses and black sequined jackets all tied up with a bow. The designer is a pro at fairy-tale dressing, but what appeared most modern was a jumpsuit that looked like a dress, and—especially—a thematic take on the LBD, with a flared cut, mock neck, and guipure bib and sleeves. It was embellished, yet comparatively restrained.