The traditions of saturated hand dyed cloths take center stage for Spring 2020.

May 5, 2020

For the Ulla Johnson Spring 2020 ad campaign, the designer embarks on a celebration of color and pattern creating a tableau of pastel and jewel toned splendor redolent of the rise and setting of the sun. Inspired by the rich cultural weaving of her native New York City, Ulla Johnson crafts a collection that honors distinct and diverse voices and the manner in which they convene and converse in complex dialogue with one another.

Johnson looks to Japan for its masterfully intricate and precise shibori method of tie-dying. Bold diamonds are draped into shapes echoing Kendo tradition incorporating generous volumes with wrapped and pleated detailing. Shibori is further explored in silk – a lurex dotted georgette is adorned in large scale diagonal florals, a crinkled cotton silk in miniature diamonds, a diaphanous chiffon in soft bleeding stripes. This last pattern is seen also on denim, both feminine and hardy in their silhouettes.

The West African tradition of ideographically emblazoned cloths continues to hold Johnson’s attention. Her love affair with Ankara wax prints is reimagined in a fan printed poplin with exuberant ruffles and tiers. The beading artistry of Benin inspires a group of cotton pieces adorned with an earthy mix of cowrie shells and seeds scattered across crisp cottons with sculptural silhouettes.

Throughout, Johnson explores new silhouettes where asymmetry adds to the idiosyncratic mood of the collection. An emboldened and overt sexuality is put forward with soaring slits and abbreviated hemlines as well as wrapped peek a boo bodices, presenting a new self-possessed dynamism and confidence.


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