For the Calvin Luo Fall 2020 RTW collection, the designer focused on functionality and pragmatism.

Calvin Luo stands out among his generation of young designers for his ability to pull together disparate and fabulous references. His shows are typically of the narrative ilk, increasingly rare in contemporary fashion, and conclude with dramatic eveningwear often adorned in paillettes and feathers.

In a palette of khaki, black, and denim blue, Luo’s garments are multipurpose: Most of the outerwear converts into gilets or waistcoats. Knitwear is trompe l’oeil, with twinsets actually made as a single garment.

Luo’s love of couture shapes and techniques remains—dramatic full skirts and braiding details still appear, but are used more sparingly than previously. His beloved feathers have similarly been reduced to boa accessories and headpieces.