Clare Waight Keller gets inspired by Nouvelle Vague movie posters, Hubert de Givenchy’s midcentury collections, and artwork by Helena Almeida and Ketty La Rocca.

March 16, 2020

The Givenchy Fall 2020 RTW collection featured an assertive graphic verve with black, white, and red as the dominant colors, with motifs that included dots, checks, preppy rugby stripes, and La Rocca’s giant apostrophes.

This was a more formal collection, with an emphasis on the demonstrative tailoring Clare Waight Keller has made her speciality at Givenchy. Its demonstrativeness this season was derived from strong shoulders, from which fell soft, full, and feminine sleeves, as seen on items including a double-breasted jacket, an evening coat, and a retro-elegant dove-gray caped dress. Elbow-length gloves added a sense of occasion to many of the ensembles.

The softly draped, boldly printed dresses that appeared midshow resonated more directly with how women are dressing now, i.e., with an eye for attention-grabbing details but also an appreciation of—make that an insistence on—ease. In a couple of instances, they were worn over pants, which is a styling trick you’re more likely to see IRL than the opera-length gloves that accompanied the suiting.

For evening, Waight Keller zeroed in on fringe and feathers. They’ve turned out to be two of the most popular refrains of the season, seen just about everywhere. Here they came in optic black and white, and they decorated both a relaxed Le Smoking and floor-length dresses with cinematic Old Hollywood flair.

Rediscover the Givenchy Fall 2020 RTW Women’s collection, inspired by the imperfect beauty of an elusive arthouse heroine and abstract musings on the female body in performance art, through the eyes of Bunny Kinney.


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