Taking place within the medieval hall of the Conciergerie, this Paco Rabanne Fall 2020 RTW collection presents a composite portrait of women who conjure contemporary forces of light and dark.

The tension between austere and embellished silhouettes is visible through diverse surface treatments, from the structured, military-style coats in lacquered leather to those bordered in delicate metallic embroideries.

Total looks in printed chain mail, imitation leather, sequins and tapestry-style knits and printed stretch jersey experiment with anachronisms that span Joan of Arc to grunge. Ruffled, crenellated and starched eyelet collars and cuffs recur as a uniformly prim underpinning pitched against imposing outer layers. Constructed capelets and ample ceremonial volumes reminiscent of baptism dresses are countered with airy transparencies that make a haunting impression.

Regarding bags, the iconic 1969 assumes various new identities: square tiling that resembles vintage porcelain covered in tea roses; small suede discs printed with wild flowers; gold medallions akin to old coins. Finally, the handheld Op-Art bag expands into new shapes and textures, widened in tapestry print or as a smaller format with a mesh handle.

While relying on Paco Rabanne fundamentals,  Julien Dossena shapes new radical aesthetics for the Maison on his Fall 2020 runway.