SALVATORE FERRAGAMO PRE-FALL 2020 COLLECTION
Negotiating a tightrope between tradition and innovation was the dynamic of the Pre-Fall collection.
December 18, 2019
The Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2020 collection is an update on the house’s style codes while being faithful to its true colors. Paul Andrew created a summery feel of the mood board, where a series of Art Deco vintage posters for glamorous Sicilian resorts suggested a longing for warm weather and a sunny, relaxed disposition. “I love those places,” said Andrew, “and the feeling of heat on your skin.”
To highlight the Italian flair for easy formality and classic-casual elegance, Andrew also referenced black-and-white photographs of Southern Italy and Greece in the ’30s by Herbert List and the movie The Talented Mr. Ripley.
Silhouettes were streamlined and gently restrained, with lightweight fabrics adding a touch of softness to the collection’s unstructured precision. Tailoring had a graphic fluidity, with the subtle leather detailing that is Ferragamo’s expertise. Stretch was added to leather to make it easy to move in, while suede was triple dyed a saturated shade of turquoise to ensure it was not only vibrant but also soft and durable. Adding to the lineup’s comfort factor was the use of no-crease fabrics, which are ideal for traveling.
The men’s and women’s collections are connected stylewise by a streamlined approach with the same shapes often overlapping, without referencing the genderless mode. Taking cues from Ferragamo’s vast archive of prints, a long feminine dress in printed silk chiffon was translated for men into a white poplin shirt patched with two printed foulards in washed silk twill.