Prada goes retro with a bright '50s and '70s-infused collection for Spring.

September 27, 2019

For the Prada Spring 2020 RTW Womenswear show, AMO devised a vibrant and colorful geometric pattern that enfolds across the hall of the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito – an expansive, all-encompassing vista, both illuminated and infused with a summery glow.

The audience enters the showspace by ascending a stepped platform: an architectural device, it serves as balcony and belvedere overlooking the panorama of the room. The installation for the first time occupies the entire space of the hall, creating a field of vision that extends to the raw concrete structure. The space is invaded by an intricate ornamental geometry, composed of a multitude of colored ceramic tiles that defines the stage. This field of pixelated gloss is surrounded by a wall running along the perimeter, mediating the industrial character of the building.

An oblique light washes the scene, magnifying the reflections of the tiles and illuminating gold leaf details on the columns. The warm glow that filtrates into the room projects lit spots and long shadows on the floor, evoking a midsummer atmosphere.

The Prada Spring 2020 RTW collection is nerdy and joyful, a mix of natural light and high gloss. The core items include a tailored jacket, long of line, fabulous in double-face, with belt loops, a dress in cheesecloth, slightly transparent and possibly finished with gold sequin swirls or a necklace of enormous shells. The collection is elegant, irreverent, unapologetically pretty. Every look involves a mix of textures and context.

For Miuccia Prada, these juxtapositions mean everything for Spring. Her starting point for this collection was that “the person should be more important than the clothes,” and further, that “personal style is more important than clothes.”

Discover the secrets behind the Prada Spring 2020 looks by watching the full interview of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau.


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