From stars, stripes, and picnic-ready prints to tailored American sportswear with a twist, the Michael Kors Spring 2020 RTW collection is about American optimism.

“In the ‘40s, women really rolled up their sleeves—they were strong, they were smart, and there was an optimism. I wanted something that brought that sense of freshness and opportunity. Looking at all the wonderful things that are the backbone of American sportswear, and reinventing it. My Spring 2020 collection is all about positivity and the power of fashion to make you feel your best self.”

He staged the show at a warehouse in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, where much of that World War II–era work got done. The palette was red, white, and blue, or primary bright, and dresses were sprinkled with lemon and cherry prints. Tailoring, always a strength, had a can-do tenor, cut in classic tattersalls and menswear plaids with military details.

Michael Kors added metal studding to various pieces—punk being the flip side of prep. As with the star-and-anchor embroideries, a little of that went a long way. The nipped waist, strong-shouldered dresses of the ’40s need little adjusting. They’re perennials, and the ones he showed today will sell like hotcakes. It doesn’t get more “now” than a statement tee. Kors cut his in cashmere with the word hate crossed out on the front. To help him make his point, he hired the Young People’s Chorus of New York City to sing Don McLean and Simon & Garfunkel hits. The crowd clapped along to “Love Train,” thankful for the uplift.

From hair and makeup to dress rehearsal and finishing touches, discover what it takes to bring our Spring 2020 Michael Kors Collection runway show to life in this never-before-seen video.