Featuring traditional silhouettes—pantsuits, shirtdresses, the trench—and using a palette of khaki, gray, white, and black, the Proenza Schouler Resort 2020 collection is anything but minimalist.

Themes of reconstruction, innovative tailoring, novel proportions, and a seemingly contradictory use of new materials, come together to create an offer that is seasonless, versatile, and often revealing a softer, more feminine side of the brand’s oeuvre.

Silhouettes, both shrunken and relaxed, coexist in the tailoring; the former in stretch technical wools, the latter in a myriad of feminized menswear checks and plaids. Leathers mix seamlessly with technical knitwear, while embroideries are toughened up when spliced with glossy plonge leathers. Collars and shoulders are sometimes pronounced, lending the proportions the feeling of a woman wanting to push the fashion envelope forward, while remaining strictly grounded in the everyday.

The Proenza Schouler Buckle Bag is the hero accessory of the season; a stripped back day bag that through its simplicity highlights its unique rectangular shape and its defining hardware element.

The collection is a push into new territory for Proenza Schouler; one that speaks to the need for directional, and utterly urbane, luxury fashion for the thinking woman of today.