OSCAR DE LA RENTA RESORT 2020 COLLECTION
Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia continue to explore cultural syncretism with Oscar de la Renta's Cruise collection.
June 10, 2019
Perfect imperfection is the ethos of the Oscar de la Renta Resort 2020 collection, looking to the crossing of Japanese and European cultures during the Meiji era, emphasizing ancient traditions that still hold modern value.
Simple ideas are approached with profound shape and exquisite textiles. Inspiration for these couture fabrics is rooted in Japanese arts of kintsugi, the reparation of broken pottery with powdered gold, and Boro, a technique of repurposing tattered fabrics into something new. Laura created a standout print using meaningful motifs from past collections, re-coloring, then patching together using the woodblock technique. Rich vintage textiles are used on the reverse for a modern take. Key here is flaws as part of the story rather than the ending, celebrated rather than hidden or replaced.
The artisanal culture of indigo dyeing, tracing back to the Edo era, is central in the color palette. Bright flowers found in traditional Japanese gardens inspired bolder hues, while flora and fauna found in historical artworks were used to update the house’s classic botanical prints. Bullion passamenterie, chorded brass buttons and double-breasted details inspired by Western naval regalia elevate deconstructed and languid silhouettes.
Overall, the references are understated – reinterpreted to fit a sense of ease and wearability now signature to the house. The wearer feels at home in everything from soft silks to menswear-inspired tailoring. The collection exudes modernity and sophistication.