For the Roberto Cavalli Fall 2019 RTW collection, Creative Director Paul Surridge incorporated more details from the brand’s past aesthetic tied in with his signature subtle touch.

The signature tiger prints were featured with an abstract touch. The results on a round-shouldered but otherwise sharp double-breasted coat were bold, like we expect from Cavalli.

The show ended with a white tuxedo, its sartorial aspect nodding more to Surridge’s own roots than the house founder’s. The designer negotiated that balance, sending out a steady mix of body-conscious numbers in black rib, say, or a sheer tattoo motif, and “perfume dresses,” house parlance for the billowy plissé frocks it uses in fragrance advertising. These appeared alongside more of the clean tailoring he likes, which he gave womanly curves by cutting the trousers with a super-high waistband and tapering the legs above the ankles.

The menswear looked assured, and gutsier in its way, than the womenswear. Especially Cavalli-like was a jean jacket silhouette embroidered all over with two sizes of silver sequins in that abstract tiger pattern.

Watch exclusive backstage highlights of the Roberto Cavalli Fall 2019 Women’s and Men’s runway show.