For the Derek Lam Fall 2019 RTW collection, the designer created a lineup of elaborate, yet still minimal patternmaking and luxurious fabrications, many by the Italian textile-maker Loro Piana.

The collection was accentuated by the substantial platform boots, slides, and ankle-strap pumps the models sported.

The standout pieces were cut from cotton canvas and linens in varying shades of khaki, with confident cuts: a trench and poncho with trapeze volumes, a tailored asymmetrical sarong. His more conventional tailoring experiments resulted in unusual, but equally boss shapes: A padded navy wool coat was double-breasted with strong shoulders and raised pockets; there’d be no messing with the woman who wears it, especially if she accessorized with his shield sunglasses.

Lam renewed his commitment to earth-friendly practice and fabrics with a long-sleeved shift in supple, non-chromed white leather, which means fewer harsh chemicals. He used a compact knit black ribbed eco-viscose for a sleeveless number allowing the fabrication and unique technique to shine through.