Explore the founder’s obsession with astrological signs and flowers with a Fifties twist for Schiaparelli’s Spring Couture collection
Taking the magic of Elsa Schiaparelli’s childhood memories, flowers, and constellations, Bertrand Guyon scattered his whimsical and eclectic Schiaparelli Spring 2019 Haute Couture collection with flowers worked in a myriad of ways.
“It’s a very fresh, young and feminine collection, a little daring in some volumes (…) and as always with that touch of humour,” said Bertrand Guyon.
Imbuing his collection with a child’s sense of optimism, lightness, and freshness, the collection reflected in a playful palette that included unexpected mixes of pink, lime, icy blues, lilacs, and chrome-yellow.
The fragile blooms fashioned from 18th-century porcelain that were used to decorate candelabras, for instance, were replicated in a myriad tiny sequins, while those painted at the same period in astonishingly eye-popping and modern looking mixes of shocking pink and turquoise. Others were embroidered in silk thread with the naïve hand of a child’s drawing, or to add three-dimensionality to the luxurious warp-printed taffetas. The constellations appeared in various guises too, from elaborately embroidered Baroque maps of the skies to an intarsia of joyful pastel stars inset into a silk ziberline trapeze-line dress.
This season, Guyon looked to Schiaparelli’s postwar designs with a new jacket shape, for instance, with rounded hips emphasizing a small waist, a softer shoulder, and stand-away pockets, was taken from documents of this period. That flattering silhouette was echoed in abbreviated little hourglass dresses, while natural hair and makeup and the surprise of star-spangled cowboy boots cut the nostalgia with a knife.
Watch as design director Bertrand Guyon talks about the new Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection.