The new Pre-Fall collection reestablishes the enduring codes of Thierry Mugler

For the Mulger Pre-Fall 2019 collection, Creative Director Casey Cadwallader created proformancewear with a rang of multi-panel, 32-seam jeans and jackets. This time in green velvet as well as denim, plus a cotton patterned with the season’s patchwork collage, Le Corbusier–inspired print—informal pieces, but special via the particularity of their construction.

Way more dressed up, yet heavily sportswear inflected, was a voluptuous tuxedo jacket in black wool that featured hourglass-enhanced hips in duchesse satin with neoprene flex. This came teamed with a kicky synth-crepe pant that featured a preprepared VPL.

A blue body-con dress in synthetic jersey had a wetsuit half-zip and patches of compression material designed to erect the chest and elevate the bosom. This arrangement was external here but applied from inside in other Cadwallader garments; he called it his “secret compression corset.”

His stirrup leggings, with their ergonomically arranged grid of metal-pressed stripes, were a version of Thierry Mugler’s original corsetry. Other leggings in gunmetal or bronze stretch taffeta, teamed with stiff-looking but flexible jackets.