The Iceberg Pre-Fall 2019 collection was built from sporty pieces injected with the irreverent vibe that the designer James Long favors.
“It’s all about learning how the Italians live and how it blends with my London punky culture,” he said. “The story for Pre-Fall is Milan office working hours nine-to-five on weekdays and then après-ski fun party time in the mountains during the weekend.”
Puffer jackets and nylon anoraks in flashing colors were emblazoned with a red and white striped motif that Long called “twisted slaloms,” for a bit of Italian show-off attitude, while a silk twill shirt was printed in “a blizzard of crazy puzzle graphics.” Glowing sequined intarsia and side patches gave black jersey tracksuits a jolt of acid après-ski glamour.
While logos are still central to building brand identities, here Long opted for a low-key gesture, hiding the Iceberg insignia in folds zippered on pants’ sides or on sleeves’ cuffs. He also focused on a more upscale knitwear offering, mixing optical graphics and grungy elements with a much-worn feel, like unfinished hems, hanging threads, and a Mickey Mouse embroidered in faded wool on an oversize, spongy knitted cardigan.
The designer obliged in strong tailoring, offering a sporty, personal take on the look, cutting fluid tailored pantsuits in technical fabrics accented with slalom stripes.